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The Wine of Kings and the King of Wines

May   2004

          

The word Barolo evokes legendary imagery…the table of Louis XIV filled with cornucopia and a bottle of Barolo lined-up for each guest. Flip through the history pages and you will find the Nebbiolo grape, from which Barolo is made, to be the choice of the veteran palate.

Barolo’s real royal standing is the wealth of tastes and aromas the Nebbiolo variety delivers like no other. Grapes from the right vintage, nurtured to fruition by the right winemaker, produce a treasure waiting to be uncorked. At the close of the millennium, Mother Nature blessed the tiny Piedmont region in the foothills of the Alps with some of the greatest vintages and wines to be produced since the birth of the grape.

The Barolo district consists of several medieval villages. These townships boast a myriad of microclimates and soils, providing many variations in flavor and aroma that are further accented by the differing styles of the winemakers. The great classic style of the past has collided with a promising new generation of Barolo makers. The diversity and individualism of Italy are at their best here. With the right guidance, you can tap into the characteristics of the various communes, vineyards, and producers.

The Grape
Where does this precious juice come from? The prized vine is the native Nebbiolo. The cultivation of this grape dates back more than seven centuries, to the 1300s. Despite its physical make-up, this sensitive, thin-skinned grape is capable of producing highly tannic wines. Though you might expect to see a deep, dark opaque juice from a wine of this caliber, you won't. Expect instead a ruby shade crowned with an orange halo in an approachable vintage.

This noble grape generally ripens in late October, long after other varieties have been picked. Nebbiolo struggles to ripen in this difficult climate. In fact, Nebbiolo is named for the autumn fog that descends over the Piemonte hills during harvest, nebbia meaning "fog." However, with the cooperation of Mother Nature and the artisanship of both “international” and “traditional” winemakers, it can produce a uniquely perfumed and powerful red. The goal is to keep the grape on its vine into early November to allow the Nebbiolo grape to fully develop. The most common problem with this strategy is that Nebbiolo may fall prey to unfavorable weather conditions moving in from the nearby Alps late in the season.

The Flavors
This is a masculine, full-bodied wine with aromas and flavors of ripe strawberries, tar, licorice, tobacco, chocolate, roses, and Asian spices - just to name a few. This complex wine best displays its depth with proper ageing.

Beware! This wine is austere and tannic in its youth. With innovations in wine making, Barolo has shed some of the years previously needed for the wine to evolve. However, if you are looking to drink young wines from Piedmont, we recommend Barbera and Dolcetto for everyday occasions.

The Region
Several factors contributing to the magic of Barolo, most attributable to the region itself. Here you encounter three of the four “B’s” of Italy – Barolo, Barbaresco, and Barbera. (The fourth "B," Brunello, flexes its muscle further south in Tuscany.

Similar to Burgundy’s Pinot Noir, this Barolo relies 100% on a difficult grape grown in temperamental weather. Yet, as is true with Grand Cru Burgundy, the risk for the winemakers is worth the reward.

The vineyards of Barolo sit in the Langhe Hills, just southwest of the town of Alba. The vines cover a relatively small surface area of 3,100 acres. The multiple microclimates create variations in quality and style, as do the individual producers. The district is composed of 11 communes, five of which produce 87% of the wine. These five are:

La Morra
Barolo
Serralunga d’Alba
Castiglione Falletto
Monforte d’Alba

To understand the subtle differences and distinctive traits of the individual villages and crus, we recommend contacting our Portfolio Managers. They will match your palate to the vintage, cru, and producer best suited to you. It is these slight differences that send wine enthusiasts on the quest for great Barolo. A terrific primer on this subject is "The Mystique of Barolo," described below.

Barolo, a World Class Cellar Wine!
Barolo belongs in the cellar alongside the elite Grand Crus of France and the cult wines of California. Barolo is not an inexpensive wine. It is, however, a superior investment. Compare various wines in a price-to-quality ratio, and you will want more space in your cellar for Baroli. There has never been a better time to invest in it - Piemonte has experienced a winning streak from 1996 to 2000, with each vintage displaying different levels of fruit, balance and elegance.

Vintage Press!
Wine Spectator has awarded the 2000 Piemonte vintage as the first ever to receive 100 points - this is a first worldwide. In addition, Robert Parker has no hesitations calling the 1997 Piedmont vintage so good that it's "freakish." IWM believes the critics are partially right in their assessment. It should be noted that each of the winning vintages from 1996 - 2000 will display different trademark characteristics of Barolo which will appeal to each individual's palate.

In the Kitchen with Barolo

Italy is about matching the wines of a region with the foods of the region. The rich foods of Piedmont are best described as hearty. In addition to Barolo, the region's other majestic product is the mythical white truffle. Add shavings of this precious gem to your pastas and you will immediately understand why. The restaurants of Piedmont fill with the pungent scents of these truffles, as well as wild mushroom risotto, golden Toma cheeses, and all sorts of chestnut and hazelnut tortes. Barolo, as well as many of the other Nebbiolo-based wines, are suited to complement these substantial flavors. Here is a recipe by Lidia Bastianich (from the book, "Vino Italiano") that captures the spirit of Piemontese cooking.

Compliments to Sergio Esposito and The Italian Wine Merchant


Who is Sergio Esposito and the Italian Wine Merchant?

 

                                

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